Free Tin Can Stirling Engine Plans
If you have any homebuilt model engine pictures of your own, please send them in!
"Amazingly simple model stirling engine plans! Other stirling engine plans may require you to have access to a machine shop. These engines are easily made from tin cans using a soldering iron and simple hand tools."
Build this excellent teaching aid and science fair project today!
Stirling is the correct spelling, by the way. I used to think they were spelled "sterling engines." (I could probably get away with calling my engines sterling engines because I lived near the town of Sterling, Alaska.) Nevertheless, Stirling engines are named after their inventor, Robert Stirling.
Some information sources out there confuse ordinary
heat engines with stirling engines. Stirling engines,
unlike other heat engines, use a
regenerator, which recycles internalenergy (heat)
many times. Feel free to browse the illustrations, but
the best way to learn how stirling engines work is to
What I like about Stirling engines:
Download free ebook or order plans by mail.
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Send checks for $12 s&h to:Henry Kroll
PO Box 12885
Everett, WA 98206
Phone 41-HENRY-KR0 (414-367-9570)Send 0.15 Bitcoins to: 1AwpuPmmNu4W4Ggm3L1ZjvwuvycFKZCPzi
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Be sure to email us your address, so we know where to send them.
and Hot Air Engine Ring site owned by Hank Kroll.
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"Thank you for sending me the address: After some more
working around I finally
got PayPal to do its thing. received plans and built the engine. Works OK I
used a "S.O.S" pad as the semi porous differentiator. It is green and did not
have the sponge part. I attempted to burn the pad and got no bad fumes it
resisted flame and did not melt into a ball. After many sessions I opened the
can and my pad was still in pristine condition. I used a "Top-Flight" 9" prop
instead of the tin can lid. Replacing the solder blob with a penny 3/4 of the
way out on the opposing blade. It really takes a well balanced engine to work
on the larger size additionally I used a 1/2" plastic rod instead of using
either aluminum or steel for the power piston. I also added height to the unit
to accommodate the longer swing of the prop blade. J.B. 4 minute weld will take
the heat up to 300 degrees and sets up fast. If I were trying it again I would
try a much smaller prop and weight. Greater stress on making sure the center of
the piston and the center of the crank shaft are aligned would be nice in the
documentation." -- J.P.
"I have two pairs of students (gifted 10th grade) using the
try to make engines. We got the plans and we have most if not all of
the materials. It is nice the way the 1/2" aluminum rod fits into the
brass tubing. I really appreciate that we could get a design that does
not require machining." --D.C.
Try my new 3D online graphing calculator: