Free Tin Can Stirling Engine Plans | |||
Download -or-
HK-3 If you have any homebuilt model engine pictures of your own, please send them in! |
"Amazingly simple model stirling engine plans! Other stirling engine plans may require a machine shop. These engines are easily made from tin cans using a soldering iron and simple hand tools." Build this excellent teaching aid and science fair project today! Download free ebook Stirling is the correct spelling, by the way. I used to think they were spelled "sterling engines." (I could probably get away with calling my engines sterling engines because I lived near the town of Sterling, Alaska.) Nevertheless, Stirling engines are named after their inventor, Robert Stirling. Some information sources out there confuse ordinary heat engines with stirling engines. Stirling engines, unlike other heat engines, use a
regenerator, which recycles internalenergy (heat) many times. Feel free to browse the illustrations, but the best way to learn how stirling engines work is to build one! How does it work? View a Please comment, rate, and subscribe to our YouTube channel. What I like about Stirling engines:
Download the free ebook. Subscribe to our Energy Newsletter (new) If you find these plans useful, send Litecoin to: LNVvmLr5i3cL5X2KXDZZd7ymNJy6Hif8Ji |
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This Stirling
and Hot Air Engine Ring site owned by Hank Kroll.
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"Thank you for sending me the address: After some more
working around I finally
got PayPal to do its thing. received plans and built the engine.
Works OK I
used a "S.O.S" pad as the semi porous differentiator. It is green
and did not
have the sponge part. I attempted to burn the pad and got no bad
fumes it
resisted flame and did not melt into a ball. After many sessions
I opened the
can and my pad was still in pristine condition. I used a
"Top-Flight" 9" prop
instead of the tin can lid. Replacing the solder blob with a
penny 3/4 of the
way out on the opposing blade. It really takes a well balanced
engine to work
on the larger size additionally I used a 1/2" plastic rod instead
of using
either aluminum or steel for the power piston. I also added
height to the unit
to accommodate the longer swing of the prop blade. J.B. 4 minute
weld will take
the heat up to 300 degrees and sets up fast. If I were trying it
again I would
try a much smaller prop and weight. Greater stress on making sure
the center of
the piston and the center of the crank shaft are aligned would be
nice in the
documentation." -- J.P.
"I have two pairs of students (gifted 10th grade) using the
plans to
try to make engines. We got the plans and we have most if not all
of
the materials. It is nice the way the 1/2" aluminum rod fits into
the
brass tubing. I really appreciate that we could get a design that
does
not require machining." --D.C.